Kenya Mutheka Kaiguri
Our Kenya offerings are arriving fresh from the port, and they're all delicious. The delicate lot from Kaiguri will be the first of many micro-lots we will release this season. This Mutheka Cooperative AA lot tastes of fresh apricot, raw sugar mixed with a slight grapefruit acidity and caramel overtones. It has a tea-like body and sips easy making it a perfect citrusy, summer coffee.
Washing Station: Kaiguri Factory
Producer: Small-hold Farmers
Process: Kenya Washed & Raised-bed Dried
Elevation: 1600 meters
Variety: SL-28, SL-34, Ruiru 11, Batian
Cup: Apricot, Panela, Grapefruit, Caramel
Kairguri Factory originally started in 1969 and was once part of the Tetu Growers Society. Tetu was a Cooperative that owned eighteen various factories in the area. Around 2004 Kairguri left TGS and started the Mutheka Coffee Cooperative, this allowed better financial stability. Four different zones sell to the Keirguri station Chukuruini, Karurumo, Mutoigu, and Karaini. Over 6000 different farmers are a part of the Cooperative. As is typical in Kenya, producers sell cherries to regional washing stations (factories) instead of processing coffee themselves as you may have seen in Central or South America.
Kenya has a pretty advanced coffee system. Two avenues are used to sell and export most coffee: the Nairobi Coffee Exchange (central auction system) and a direct-sale system with a marketer. Cooperatives tend to lean towards the first and use the auction system to sell their coffees based on quality. You must be a licensed marketer to buy coffee through the competitive auction system by bidding on coffees. Auctions are held every Tuesday with samples of the coffees going out to the marketers and cuppers the week prior. This way you can cup the outturns for the week and decide which coffees you wish to bid on. An outturn refers to the week of wet milling and production of coffee. You’ll see a number next to all our Kenya lots which describe which outturn it was. We tend to like outturns between 14-21, which are in the middle to the end of harvest time and usually have the most nutrient dense and best-tasting coffees.
This year coffee production was down about 25% in Kenya. This means the auction system for the coffees that cupped higher reached almost unprecedented levels. While this does mean our Kenyans will be a bit more expensive this year, it also meant less competition for us. And we were able to purchase quite a few more lots than we normally do. This is our personal best year of sourcing in Kenya. We are really excited to release some special lots all year long.
In the Kenya process, first the cherries are sorted, and under-ripe/overripe cherries are removed. Once the sorting is finished the coffee is then depulped. This is done by squeezing the cherry through a screen and removing the fruit and skin from the bean. The coffee is then left to ferment in white ceramic tiled tanks for 24 hours. Next, the coffee is stirred for a short amount of time and left to ferment for another 24 hours. After two days of dry fermentation, the coffee is washed with fresh water, removing the sticky mucilage attached to the beans that are loosened by bacteria during the fermentation. It’s then soaked in water to ferment overnight slightly. The coffee goes through sorting and density channels which separates the lots, and then it is taken to raised beds to dry. Once it reaches 11.5-12% moisture content, the coffee is brought to conditioning bins to rest until it goes to the dry mill.
Once a coffee has been processed, dried and then milled it goes to a sorter that separates the beans by specific characteristics, mainly size. Coffee goes into a machine that vibrates sending beans through different screens with certain size holes and sorts the coffee based on size and density. This results in a more uniform coffee and cup profile. Then the coffees are auctioned based on the grade (size & density) they have.
AA (screen size 17 & 18)
The largest and most celebrated grade of Kenyan coffee. Usually the highest priced coffee on the auction from each outturn and factory. AA is is the most common grade we buy and what we normally expect from an outstanding Kenya cup.
AB (screen size 15 & 16)
This grade represents about 30% of Kenya production. While AB is usually considered lower quality than AA, we find that to not be accurate in the cup. Over the years of cupping, we have consistently found incredible AB’s that actually cup better than their more prestigious AA relatives, enforcing the idea that everything must be cupped and not have its value determined based on classification or reputation.
Peaberries represents about 10% of Kenya production. They are a result of a coffee cherry only producing one bean instead of two. Technically they are fused together during the early stages and form one round bean instead of two half spheres. We tend to notice more fermentation tasting notes here. Winey, syrupy, and mouth coating are some of the attributes that we usually notice in the cup.
E (large Peaberries & large chipped beans)
C (screen size 14 & 15)
TT (falls through 14)
T (small or broken pieces of beans)